You can save hundreds of dollars tackling home repairs yourself.
Or you can turn a $50 fix into a $3,000 disaster.
The difference comes down to knowing what professionals know—the techniques that work, the products that don’t damage your home, and when to stop and make the call.
Here’s what pros wish every homeowner understood before picking up a wrench.
Clear Clogged Drains Without Damaging Your Pipes
A plunger often isn’t enough for bathroom sink clogs. Chemical drain cleaners seem like the easy solution.
They’re not.
Drano, Liquid-Plumr, and similar chemical cleaners corrode metal pipes, damage plastic components, and alter septic system chemistry when used frequently. They’re also often ineffective, leaving you with the same clog plus damaged pipes.
Professionals use a different approach.
Remove the stopper first. If it doesn’t simply lift out, look for a nut on the back of the drain pipe just below the sink. Remove this nut—the lever passing through it holds the stopper in place. Some sink systems vary slightly, but most follow this pattern.
Try grabbing the obstruction. Use a thin grabbing tool like hemostat forceps. These cost under $5 at medical supply stores or online. If you can reach and pull out the hair and debris causing the clog, you’re done.
If that doesn’t work, use a wet/dry vac. This is the technique most homeowners don’t know about.
Buy a wet/dry vac if you don’t own one. At around $40, it costs less than a single plumber service call and you’ll use it for years.
Reattach the nut you removed when freeing the stopper. This prevents leaking and maintains suction. Run the water. Cover the sink’s overflow opening with your hand. Place the nozzle of the running wet/dry vac over the clogged drain.
Work the vacuum in small, quick up-and-down movements for a few seconds. Then switch—move the nozzle to the overflow opening while keeping your hand over the drain. Continue alternating between drain and overflow.
The changes in pressure dislodge the clog. The vacuum either pulls debris up or pushes it down the drain. Keep going until water flows freely.
You might notice drain odor after dislodging debris. Use a bottle brush to scrub the drain line. If smell persists, close the drain with the stopper and run hot water for three to five minutes, letting it flow down the overflow opening. This washes away the detritus causing the smell. Monitor the sink so water doesn’t spill onto the floor.
Las Vegas consideration: The valley’s hard water—291 ppm hardness—creates additional mineral buildup in drains. You’ll deal with clogs more frequently than homeowners in other markets. Regular maintenance becomes more critical.
This technique works. No pipe damage, no harsh chemicals, no $150 plumber call for a basic clog.
Fix Running Toilets the Right Way
A toilet that won’t stop running wastes water and money.
Most homeowners know something’s wrong but don’t know what to look for or how to fix it correctly.
Start with quick checks. Remove the tank lid and look inside. Is the chain connected to the flush handle caught under the flapper—the rubber part the chain lifts when you flush? If so, shortening the chain slightly solves the problem.
Flush the toilet and watch the mechanism. Does any part snag on another part? A slight adjustment or small bend to a component like the float ball arm might be all you need.
The most common culprit is a warped flapper. These fail faster than ever because of chemicals water districts put in water and cleaning chemicals some homeowners put in toilets. A warped flapper won’t seal properly, so water continuously leaks from the tank into the bowl.
Replacing a flapper is straightforward. The challenge is buying the correct replacement.
Don’t just take your old flapper to a hardware store and ask for a match. If the last person to replace it chose the wrong part, you’ll get the wrong part too.
The safer approach: write down your toilet make and model. Look for flappers at the parts store that list your specific model on the package. Some toilets have replacement part numbers listed under the tank lid.
To replace the flapper: Shut off the water to the toilet. Flush to empty the tank. Disconnect the chain from the flush arm. Lift out the old flapper—removal is usually simple and intuitive once you see how it attaches. Install the new flapper by reversing the process. Reconnect the chain and test.
A flapper costs $5 to $15. A professional call runs $150 to $300.
Unclog Showerheads With Vinegar
Mineral buildup clogs spray holes in showerheads, reducing water pressure and creating uneven spray patterns.
This problem hits Las Vegas homes particularly hard. The valley’s 291 ppm hardness and 17 grains per gallon mean mineral deposits accumulate faster than in most markets.
Try the washcloth method first. Soak a washcloth in white vinegar. Use a rubber band to secure it around the showerhead with the cloth tight against the nozzle. The vinegar can clear clogs in as little as 20 minutes, though longer soak times improve your odds.
This technique works on clogged faucet aerators too.
If the washcloth doesn’t work, use the plastic bag method. Fill a gallon-size plastic bag halfway with vinegar. Secure it over the showerhead with rubber bands so the head is completely immersed. Leave it for several hours or overnight.
Vinegar dissolves mineral deposits without damaging fixtures. No tools required, no risk, and vinegar costs pennies.
In Las Vegas, you’ll need to do this more frequently than homeowners elsewhere. Consider a whole-house water softener if mineral buildup becomes severe throughout your home.
Fix a Washing Machine That Won’t Spin
When a washing machine stops spinning or agitating, most homeowners assume they need a new washer.
Often the problem is just a snapped or dislodged drive belt. The rubber belt connects the motor to the drum or transmission. It’s a fixable problem.
First, unplug the washing machine. This is critical for safety.
Remove the access panel. With top loaders, you typically detach the front panel. You might need to remove a few screws near the base or slide a putty knife along the top of the panel to release clips. With front loaders, access is usually from the rear.
If you can’t figure out how to access your specific model, search online for videos using your washer’s make and model.
Look for the belt. You’re searching for a rubber belt lying near the bottom of the unit or hanging loose from the motor or drum pulley. If the belt is intact but dislodged, your repair is simply putting it back in place. If it’s snapped, take it to an appliance parts store and ask for a replacement.
Tipping the washer back and resting it against a wall provides easier access. Make sure it’s stable before you start working.
To reinstall the belt: Position it on the motor pulley first. Hold it in place along one side of the drum pulley. Be careful not to catch your fingers between the belt and pulley. If it’s difficult to stretch into place, you might need a tool for leverage, but work carefully.
Some washers use “direct drive” connections between the motor and drum—no belts at all. When these stop spinning, it’s generally time to call a repair person or replace the washer. You can’t DIY direct drive motor failures.
A replacement belt costs $15 to $30. Professional repair runs $150 to $300. You save hundreds in unnecessary washer replacement costs.
Never Use These Wrong Products
Small product choices create expensive problems.
Never skip grout sealer after laying tile. Grout stains easily. Scrubbing won’t restore it once stained.
After you grout tile on any surface—floor, wall, or countertop—wait three to five days for the grout to cure. Then apply a solvent-based grout sealer using a small brush or spray bottle. Wipe off the excess.
Reapply yearly. If the grout is in or near a shower, apply twice yearly.
Latex-based sealers are less effective but better than nothing. If you can’t find solvent-based sealer due to environmental restrictions in your area, apply three or four coats of latex-based sealer for adequate protection.
A quart of quality sealant costs around $12. Not using it means permanently stained grout or expensive tile replacement down the road.
If your grout is already dirty, use a cleaner specifically made for grout. Regular cleaners won’t work.
Never apply latex paint directly over oil-based paint. Latex won’t stick. Within weeks, your new paint coat starts peeling. You’ll have to strip it off and start over.
Test existing paint before you begin. Wash a section with soap and water and let it dry. Swab it with rubbing alcohol. If some paint lifts off, it’s latex. If not, it’s oil-based.
If you must apply latex paint over oil-based paint, first apply a coat of deglosser, also called liquid sandpaper. Check the deglosser instructions—some are only effective if you paint within hours of applying them.
Deglosser costs $12 to $15 per gallon. Skipping this step and having to redo the entire paint job costs hundreds.
Never use cheap caulk or skip surface preparation. Cheap caulks fail in just a few years. Simple latex caulks won’t take paint, which matters when you’re caulking wall trim before painting.
The surface you’re caulking must be thoroughly clean. If you caulk over dirt and dust, the caulk bonds to the debris instead of the surface underneath. Moisture gets into your home’s structure.
Use high-quality siliconized latex caulk or latex-elastomeric caulk. Either should last 20 years. These cost $3 to $4 for a 10-ounce tube—barely more than cheap caulk that fails quickly.
Never paint metal without treating rust first. Painting over rust only conceals the problem. The rust continues consuming the metal underneath.
Sand down the rusted area. Apply Ospho, a phosphoric acid product that retards rust. Let it sit overnight. The rusted areas should appear black by the next morning—that’s the sign that rust has been chemically altered so it won’t continue spreading.
Apply a coat of Rust-Oleum metal primer over the entire metal surface. This prevents the spread of rust that isn’t yet visible. Where you see rust, there’s always more rust you can’t see yet.
Once the primer dries, you’re ready to paint.
This applies to metal doors, railings, fences, patio furniture, and steel gutters. Ospho costs $10 to $15 per quart. Rust-Oleum runs $10 or less per quart. Skipping these steps means the rust wins and you eventually replace the entire metal component.
Never neglect water shut-off valves. The valves beneath sinks and toilets seize up when they go untouched for years. Mineral deposits cause them to stick. When you finally need to shut off water for a repair, the valve won’t budge.
Your only option is hiring a plumber to cut the valves out and replace them. That costs hundreds of dollars.
The fix takes seconds. Shut and reopen each water valve in your home every six months. That’s it. Your valves will give you a lifetime of trouble-free service.
Never neglect exterior door hinges. Hinges on exterior doors rust and seize up, causing significant damage to the door when it’s used. This happens to little-used doors but can even happen to a front door while you’re on vacation.
Lubricate exterior door hinges once yearly with silicon spray. Don’t use oil-based lubricant—it traps dirt in the hinge.
Open the door before applying the silicone so the lubricant gets inside the hinge barrel. This takes 30 seconds per door and prevents hundreds in door replacement costs.
Never let your garbage disposal rust. Rust can develop in a disposal when it goes unused for as little as a week.
Before leaving on vacation, pour a shot glass full of vegetable oil into the disposal. It stays rust-free during your absence. When you return, pour a small amount of dishwasher detergent down the disposal to clean out the oil.
This costs pennies and prevents disposal replacement.
Six Maintenance Mistakes That Cost Money
Installing furnace and AC filters backward. Most homeowners replace filters every few months. Many don’t realize filters only work in one direction.
Install a filter backward and you get poor filtering, inhibited airflow, reduced energy efficiency, and potentially burned-out components.
Look for the arrow on the filter’s side. This arrow points toward the furnace or air conditioner—the direction of airflow. Air flows into the unit, not away from it.
Bonus step most people skip: vacuum out the filter compartment when you replace the filter. Use a regular vacuum or shop-vac wand. This takes 30 seconds and improves system efficiency.
Similar oversight: oven range hood filters. Pop these out and clean them several times yearly. Most can go in the dishwasher. Failing to clean them reduces exhaust effectiveness by up to 50%.
Cleaning central-air drain lines without checking for clogs first. Pouring a cup of bleach down your air conditioner’s condensate drain line once or twice yearly prevents mold and mildew growth.
But most homeowners don’t check the line for clogs before pouring bleach. Clogs from mold, algae, or insect nests cause water to back up, leading to musty odors and water damage, especially if your evaporator is in the attic.
Before pouring bleach, have someone watch the external end of the line where water drips outside or down a basement drain. Pour water into the access opening near your AC unit. If your helper doesn’t see water flow out, you have a clog.
Clear clogs with a shop-vac. Use duct tape to create a seal between the shop-vac hose and the external end of the line, or purchase a shop-vac hose adaptor. Turn on the vacuum to suck out the obstruction.
This saves $150 or more by avoiding a maintenance call.
Note: This method doesn’t apply to systems that pump condensation upward. Check with the pump maker if you suspect a clog in those systems.
Using the wrong lock lubricant. When door locks start sticking, most people spray WD-40 or another multipurpose lubricant into the keyhole.
Wrong choice. Multipurpose lube provides short-term improvement but soon gums up the intricate lock mechanism. You’ll leave the lock worse than before.
Use graphite instead. It’s available at home centers and hardware stores, but you don’t even need to buy it. Rub a #2 pencil liberally all over the surfaces of the key that enter the lock. Insert the key into the sticking lock several times, turning it each time. Wipe remaining graphite off the key afterward so it doesn’t make your purse or pocket messy.
Similar mistake: using multipurpose lube on garage door hinges, wheels, and chains. It drips all over the garage and cars below.
Better choice: lithium grease lubricant. It clings without dripping.
Damaging floors when cleaning refrigerator coils. You should remove dust and pet hair from your refrigerator’s condenser coils a few times yearly. This helps refrigerators work efficiently, reducing energy bills and extending motor life.
The problem: refrigerators made in the past two decades have coils accessed from behind the fridge, not from a front kick plate. Homeowners damage their kitchen floors when they slide the fridge out.
Slip a thick piece of cardboard or carpet remnant under the fridge before sliding it. This protects your flooring.
Using chemicals to clear drains. Drain-cleaning chemicals are often ineffective and sometimes damage pipes and septic systems.
Use a plunger instead. Buy a small plunger that’s easier to fit over sink drains. When plunging a bathroom sink, cover the overflow hole with your hand to create suction. Small, quick plunger movements help form a seal and dislodge debris.
For garbage disposals, run cold water when using them, not hot. Hot water softens food debris, increasing the odds it will stick. Cold water solidifies debris, making it easier for the disposal to chop and send down the drain.
Cleaning gutters but neglecting the roof. Most homeowners clear leaves from gutters each fall. Some neglect to clear leaves and debris off the roof.
Roof debris eventually gets swept into gutters by rain or wind. You end up with the clogs you worked to avoid.
When you clean gutters, clear the roof too.
When to Stop and Call a Professional
Some repairs should never be DIY projects.
Electrical work beyond replacing outlets or light fixtures. If circuit breakers trip often, lights dim when appliances turn on, switches or outlets get hot, or you see sparking, call an electrician.
An evaluation costs $100 to $300. The cost of ignoring electrical problems is a house fire.
Plumbing rough-in work. Moving pipes behind walls, installing new bathroom or kitchen fixtures that require new lines, anything involving the main water line, or any gas line work should go to professionals.
The cost of a mistake is thousands in water damage.
HVAC system repairs. Refrigerant work requires certification. Ductwork installation, furnace or AC component replacement, and systems not heating or cooling properly all need professional diagnosis.
Let pros figure out the problem before you attempt fixes.
Structural changes. Never remove walls without professional consultation—they might be load-bearing. Foundation work, roof repairs beyond replacing a few shingles, and any structural modifications need professional expertise.
The cost of a mistake is structural failure and tens of thousands in repairs.
When DIY will look amateur. If the result will be visible to buyers and you can’t match professional finish quality, hire someone.
Buyers and home inspectors spot shortcuts immediately. Amateur work reduces your home’s value more than the cost of hiring a professional. It also raises red flags about what other DIY work might be hiding behind walls.
Las Vegas-Specific DIY Considerations
Hard water at 291 ppm hardness accelerates problems throughout your home.
You’ll need more frequent maintenance on faucet aerators, showerheads, toilet flappers, washing machine hoses, and water heaters. Sediment buildup happens faster. Descaling becomes a regular task, not an occasional one.
Consider a whole-house water softener if buildup becomes severe.
The desert climate creates unique challenges. Dust infiltration means more frequent filter changes. Extreme heat makes roof work dangerous in summer—hire pros for roofing during hot months. UV exposure degrades exterior caulk and paint faster than in other climates. Thermal expansion puts more stress on pipes and connections.
The low humidity is an advantage—less mold risk than humid climates. But dust becomes a bigger problem.
Year-round outdoor living means more maintenance. Patio covers need regular inspection. Outdoor kitchen plumbing is vulnerable to mineral buildup. Landscape irrigation systems with xeriscaping are more complex than traditional sprinkler systems. Drip systems clog from minerals.
Sand and dust affect door hinges, locks, and garage door mechanisms. You’ll need more frequent lubrication and cleaning to prevent buildup damage. Air filters become critical for HVAC longevity.
The Real Cost of DIY Mistakes
Numbers make the stakes clear.
Use chemical drain cleaner that damages pipes: professional pipe replacement costs $1,000 to $3,000. Use the wet/dry vac method: $40 one-time cost.
Apply the wrong paint type and must redo: stripping and repainting a room costs $500 to $1,200 professionally. Test first and use deglosser if needed: $15.
Skip grout sealer and grout stains permanently: professional tile replacement costs $1,500 to $5,000. Seal properly: $12 for sealer.
Ignore rust and paint over it until metal fails: replacing a rusted railing or door costs $500 to $2,000. Treat rust properly: $25 for Ospho and primer.
Don’t exercise water valves and they seize: plumber cuts out and replaces for $200 to $400. Exercise valves regularly: 30 seconds of time.
Never clean refrigerator coils and compressor burns out early: replacement costs $500 to $1,200. Clean coils twice yearly: 15 minutes of time.
The pattern is obvious. Small preventive actions save hundreds or thousands.
Tools Every DIYer Needs
You don’t need a full workshop. Start with essentials.
For plumbing: wet/dry vac ($40), small and large plungers ($10-$20), hemostat forceps ($5), adjustable wrench ($15-$25), plumber’s tape ($2).
For general repairs: cordless drill with bits ($80-$150), hammer ($20-$40), screwdriver set ($25-$50), level ($15-$30), tape measure ($10-$20), utility knife ($8-$15).
Essential supplies: white vinegar for multiple uses ($3), high-quality caulk ($3-$4 per tube), grout sealer ($12 per quart), graphite or pencils for locks (under $5), lithium grease ($8-$12), silicon spray ($6-$10).
If you need a $200 specialty tool for a one-time $150 repair, hire a professional instead. The exception is tools you’ll use multiple times over years. Consider tool rental for expensive one-time needs.
Safety Essentials You Can’t Skip
Always turn off power at the breaker for electrical work. Shut off water before plumbing work. Wear safety glasses when using power tools. Wear gloves when handling chemicals or sharp objects. Work in well-ventilated areas. Keep a fire extinguisher nearby.
Never work alone on risky repairs like roof work, ladder work, or heavy lifting. Don’t bypass safety features on tools. Don’t work when you’re tired or distracted. Don’t attempt repairs beyond your skill level. Don’t ignore warning labels on products.
In Las Vegas specifically: don’t work on roofs during summer heat—hire professionals. Hydrate constantly when working outside. Watch for scorpions and black widows in storage areas. Protect your skin from intense UV during outdoor projects.
When DIY Saves Money vs. When It Costs More
DIY saves money on simple fixture replacements, filter changes and basic maintenance, painting if you can match professional quality, minor caulking and sealing, basic plumbing like clogs and faucet replacement, and hardware installation.
Typical savings: 50 to 70% compared to hiring a professional.
DIY costs more when you damage surrounding materials, when repair takes four times longer than estimated, when you must redo incorrectly done work, when you create safety hazards, when the result looks amateur and reduces home value, or when you need specialized tools you’ll never use again.
Run a break-even analysis. Professional labor typically costs $50 to $150 per hour. Factor in your time value plus materials plus risk of mistakes. If a repair takes you eight hours versus a professional’s two hours, account for that difference. If a mistake could cost thousands to fix, hire the professional.
Key Takeaways
- Use wet/dry vac ($40) for drain clogs instead of chemicals that damage pipes and cost $1,000+ to fix
- Replace toilet flappers ($5-$15) by matching to toilet model, not by appearance of old flapper
- Unclog showerheads with vinegar soak (pennies) instead of replacing ($50-$200)
- Fix washing machine drive belts yourself ($15-$30) vs. professional repair ($150-$300)
- Always seal grout after tiling ($12) or face permanent staining and $1,500+ tile replacement
- Test paint type before applying latex over oil, use deglosser ($15) to prevent peeling disaster
- Exercise water shut-off valves every 6 months (30 seconds) to prevent $200-$400 valve replacement
- Use graphite or pencil lead for locks, never WD-40 which gums up mechanism
- Clean refrigerator coils twice yearly (15 minutes) to prevent $500-$1,200 compressor failure
- Las Vegas hard water (291 ppm) requires more frequent maintenance on all plumbing fixtures
- Call professionals for electrical, structural, HVAC, and any work where mistakes cost thousands
- If DIY result looks amateur, it reduces home value more than cost of hiring professional
Frequently Asked Questions
What’s the safest way to clear a clogged bathroom sink? Use a wet/dry vac instead of chemical drain cleaners. Remove the sink stopper, reattach the drain nut to maintain suction, then alternate the vac nozzle between the drain and overflow opening while covering one with your hand. The pressure changes dislodge clogs without damaging pipes. A wet/dry vac costs around $40—less than one plumber call—and chemical cleaners like Drano corrode pipes and damage septic systems.
How do I know which toilet flapper to buy? Write down your toilet’s make and model instead of bringing the old flapper to the store. Previous owners may have installed the wrong part, so matching appearance doesn’t work. Look for flappers that list your specific toilet model on the package. Some toilets have replacement part numbers listed under the tank lid. Wrong flappers are the most common toilet repair mistake homeowners make.
Can I really fix a washing machine that won’t spin myself? Often, yes. The problem is usually a snapped or dislodged drive belt connecting the motor to the drum. Unplug the machine, remove the access panel (front on top-loaders, rear on front-loaders), and look for a rubber belt near the bottom. If it’s just dislodged, put it back in place. If snapped, replacement belts cost $15-$30 at appliance parts stores. Note: “direct drive” washers without belts require professional repair.
What’s the best way to unclog a showerhead in Las Vegas? Soak a washcloth in white vinegar and secure it around the showerhead with a rubber band for at least 20 minutes. For stubborn clogs, fill a plastic bag halfway with vinegar and secure it over the showerhead overnight. Las Vegas water measures 291 ppm hardness, so mineral buildup happens faster than other markets. You’ll need to do this more frequently—every few months instead of once yearly.
Why is grout sealer so important? Grout stains easily and permanently without sealer. Once stained, scrubbing won’t restore it. Apply solvent-based grout sealer 3-5 days after grouting any tile surface. Reapply yearly, or twice yearly for shower areas. A quart costs around $12. Skipping this step leads to permanently stained grout or $1,500-$5,000 tile replacement. If you can only find latex-based sealer, apply 3-4 coats for adequate protection.
When should I call a professional instead of DIY? Always call professionals for electrical work beyond outlet replacement, plumbing rough-in or gas line work, HVAC repairs involving refrigerant or major components, structural changes including wall removal, and any repair where mistakes could cost thousands. Also hire pros when the visible result matters for home value—amateur work that looks DIY reduces home value more than the cost of hiring professionals.
How often should I maintain water shut-off valves? Every six months. Simply shut each valve completely, then reopen it. This 30-second task prevents mineral deposits from seizing the valve. In Las Vegas, hard water accelerates this problem. If valves seize, a plumber must cut them out and replace them for $200-$400. Regular exercise keeps them working for the life of your home.
What’s wrong with using WD-40 on sticky locks? WD-40 and multipurpose lubricants provide short-term improvement but then gum up the lock mechanism, making it worse than before. Use graphite instead. You don’t even need to buy graphite lubricant—just rub a #2 pencil all over your key, insert it into the lock several times while turning, then wipe the key clean. Graphite lubricates without attracting dirt or creating sticky buildup.
How do I prevent my garbage disposal from rusting when I travel? Pour a shot glass of vegetable oil into the disposal before leaving on vacation. Rust can develop in as little as one week of non-use. When you return, pour a small amount of dishwasher detergent down the disposal to clean out the oil. This costs pennies and prevents disposal replacement.
What’s the biggest DIY mistake Las Vegas homeowners make? Underestimating hard water impact on everything. At 291 ppm hardness (17 grains per gallon), mineral buildup happens much faster than other markets. Faucet aerators, showerheads, toilet flappers, washing machine hoses, and water heaters all need more frequent maintenance and earlier replacement. Many expensive repairs stem from ignoring this reality. Consider a whole-house water softener if buildup becomes severe.
